Last sightings, a nice goodbye from Botswana

Getting useable internet here is a challenge. Last night in South Africa. Left Limpopo River lodge yesterday with only one minor hitch at the border crossing.
The gate guard on the Botswana side was very observant and got Ali not using her seatbelt as we drove up to him!  He succumbed to her sheepish grin, and just growled in a pleasant but "I got you" sort of way.

Limpopo River lodge was a brilliant find. Quite a large property, around 10000 hectares, with no fences to at least one neighbour, so the animals range freely.

                                     Pretty much as far as we can see, there is nobody but us!
                                       This is a Brai (BarBQ) site. No fee. Drive yourself.

                                     The road (seriously, they call this a road!) to the brai site.

       Selfie at the top of the mornings kopje. Not far from that skeleton, I found some wire. Snare!!!!
          Also, indications of old campsites. Dating back who knows how far.

Looking Northish from the top of the mornings kopje. Sunset kopje is just on the other side of the water hole.

                                                          The view from the shower

                    Somebody in the shower!!!!!!!  I am not allowed to say who  :)


The Tuli block of Botswana is the only privately owned land in the country. Everyone born in Botswana is entitled to a 40 m by 40 m block of land and has a 50 year lease granted by the government. These are easily renewable, so generally stay in the family, and get other blocks added. There is no homeless issue here. We saw nobody living on the streets. We didn't spend much time in any larger cities, but it is impressive. Botswana is the size of France with a population of just 2 million and no debt.  Wow!

                       Limpopo River Lodge,, campsite #3.  South Africa, on the other side!

                                       Our NZ$1  T bone steak!!!!!  and it was good.

                             Morning tea time...  and Justin will understand  .

Anyhow, we climbed lovely little kopje (pronounced..  copy") to watch the last evening sunset and then started to drive back to our excellent riverside campspot.

We'd driven through the bush about 5 minutes towards camp, the light is fading, and suddenly Ali shouts (quietly, I might add) " Leopard"....  wow!!!!  driving, all I see is this large cat coming off the skyline of a small (10mtr high) kopje to our right, and as I stop Norman (the Toyota) I cannot make out any colour other than it seems to be the same shade as the light brown rocks it is on.

Once stopped, and with the binoculars, it is as she thought, a beautiful leopard, and it has stopped, sitting now among the rocks watching us. It is only about 25 metres away, but unless you know exactly where to look, it is invisible. We had been told by a number of people about this effect of their markings, but without seeing it, it is really hard to understand.

We sit quietly, and watch. For about 5 minutes it never took it's eyes off us, and then it relaxed and started looking around at it's territory. Everything out there (other than other predators) is potential food, and at that time of day they are on the menu!

After what seemed like half an hour, but likely only 15 minutes, it stood up, and slipped down through the rocks, across the road in front of us to disappear into the bush.

We really never thought we'd see one, as they are very secretive, and everyone we met said they hoped we would but it wasn't very likely, especially without any guide, and not on some commercial safari type property. So to come across one on our own, with nobody around was really special.

As we left for South Africa the following morning, we couldn't help but stop at the reception (about 5 kms drive from the campsite) and let the manager know. He was so excited for us and dragged us out to tell his friends who were visiting from Gaborone and were just about to leave. The excitement that a sighting like this generates was a little unexpected, but it seems that everyone who loves the wildlife puts a very high price on such an experience.

Last night, we caught up with a woman and her son for the evening at a casino close to the airport in Johannesburg. She'd been with us on the EcoTraining course. We were talking about what we'd been up to since, and she told us that the Coffee with Elephant experience we'd had on the last afternoon at the Kruger camp was also very unusual. She'd been discussing it with the lead guide instructor, Bruce, and he'd told her that even though they often had ele's though the camp, they'd never had one come as close to us, and  we were at ground level and not in the elevated dining classroom area, which is where they have always been when the ele's come through.  We have been very lucky, and somewhat privileged to have these moments of close contact.

                                
                                          Another shot of Ali, enjoying Africa ..

One of the things that has struck us is the contrasts. Black white, natural quiet to man made noise, super rich and Mercedes to dirt poor and a donkey powered cart. The quiet of the not flowing Limpopo suddenly shattered by gunfire on the other (Sth African) side. That was every night we were there.
Waking to the sound of an elephant walking close to the tent at night, and then a night later to the sound of traffic on the 4 lane highway a few hundred metres away from the next campsite. Driving at 80km/hr or more on soft red sand with no traffic to doing 120km/hr on that 4 lane highway surrounded by vehicles and the odd crazy driver!
Eating our one pot baked beans with egg to a day later a 3 course meal surrounded by the plastic artificial world of a casino.  It kind of assaults your senses.

We have read a lot of books and watched a lot of movies and documentaries about Africa, and there is a recurring theme. Africa can grab you and not let go, and it is also very harsh and can chew you up and spit you out without blinking.  We now get both extremes, and we have only briefly visited 3 countries. We hope to come back. Kenya, Tanzania, Namibia...  and maybe revisit some places.

Over and out.

   Last photo..  has to be an ele. Significant, this one, as that stick, ended up being with us for a couple of weeks, and we left it on top of our Leopard Kopje.  Emotional moment that.

RK, dogs and getting wet!

Ok, so some of you will have noticed a complete lack of RK news.  So, here is a picture of what it is like driving in Botswana

What you may notice is a lack of any obvious RK news candidates. We have decided that this must be an evolutionary phenomenon. Briefly, the animals, reptiles and birds here live in such a high risk environment due to the number of other birds, animals and reptiles that are keen on eating them, that they quickly adapted to the road crossing issue, and those that didn't ....  well....  didn't!

Different subject, getting wet here is impossible other than in a shower or from having someone use a hose or large water pistol on you.....  that is unless you visit Victoria falls.  They do suggest (quite firmly) that renting a rain coat is a good idea. What they should do is just issue you with soap and give you a towel!

Holy smoke that thunders!  Talk about torrential rain. It was like being in a tropical downpour, except the sky was cloudless and blue!

                                                   Tropical rainforest, under a cloudless sky.

                     Ali actually brought her coat from NZ..  I rented mine.  $3 US
Another odd fact....  the currency in Zimbabwe is the US$   Thanks we suspect to Mr Mugabe.

As for dogs and the incessant noise from them in and around any habitation...  they are everywhere and a lot look pretty sad...  but not this one.

This was one very unexpected sighting while driving from Kasane South towards Francistown.  We actually stopped, did a u turn and went back..  One of the most stunning animals we have seen, and completely unafraid of us.  I suspect that on his own, he would have left us alone, but that might be different if you were on foot, and the pack found you and were hungry.

We are off to the Limpopo River Lodge for a few nights, so had to include another elephant shot...  hope I haven't repeated this one..  For the track enthusiasts, this one was walking towards us.  Small things like that are helpful.  Ali wants you all to know that cheese is cheaper here !!!!!  and EVERYONE knows about the All Blacks!

Night time noise

Funny how quickly one gets used to the fact that having hyena's wooowooping, or jackals howling once the sun goes down is just background noise.

When we got here, pretty much every sound at night would make us go "what was that" and now, it is normal to have an elephant making some loud growl or  baboon shriek and not even take any notice.

The baboons are strict on discipline and you can hear the youngster getting a bit of a pinch (that is what we have been told by people who should know) and they really scream. At night, baboon rules are; be quiet, don't squirm and go to sleep unless you are on duty!  The young have to learn this, and they get told off quite severely.

Leopards (we've only heard them, and seen tracks) make a loud low growling cough and of course the roar of lions is really something to hear.

We've twice now heard lions and elephants having a major disagreement and they are LOUD.  The first time, at Elephant Sands, I was awake and heard a very loud low growling followed by (pretty much at the same time)  an elephant getting a fright or being really annoyed, poked my head out the tent, and pointed my torch in the general direction to see two small (very young) elephants running flat out towards the camp. Lights at night can be confusing for elephants, and not wanting to add to their plight, I switched off and noticed about 3 adult ele's running from the camp towards the noise.  Only the next day, when talking with a guide did we figure out what was happening, as you never see small ele's leading any group. Lions had come across the group and the adults were looking to scare them off while the youngsters ran towards what were likely aunties and uncles or large half siblings.
Last night, we had lions roaring not tooo far from camp, and then clearly they met some ele's and there was a real yelling match. Pretty even contest from where we were. They also were quite close, less than 1km away and loud.

Favourite sounds would have to be the lions, and hyena (which somehow always manages to organise an echo) and then probably the most dramatic is the sound of elephants walking past the tent. Most nights, there is no wind, and the sound of these very gentle but very heavy footsteps going past is something else. Closest so far would be about 3 metres.

Least favourite noise at night..  other campers talking loudly after bedtime  (8pm)  or snoring, very loudly!!!!

a few more photos...  I am way behind what we have been up to, but blame that on Africa..  and lack of internet.

 I like this shot, two bulls, Limpopo river, Kruger

 So, where exactly is that boabab, said a guide ..  Never!

 Sleeping ele bull.  This is the guy I had coffee with.  He was even snoring for about 20 min

Spot the puff adder.  No, spot is not it's name!!!!  just find it.

 Ntweetwe pan..  at least I think so..  We were totally "nowhere" and without GPS....  lost!

Ali with ele's..  Elephant Sands

                                                  Hmmmmmm!

                                              Puff Adder track.

                                            found this while tracking the puff adder. didn't find the snake.

                                      yep, we found these, 4 of them, had killed a buffalo. Chobe river

                                               Did I mention crocs?

                               Hopeless shot of buffalo, lucky that kingfisher saved it from being deleted.

Photo blog and getting saved by GPS!

Botswana is seriously flat, and driving on deep sand among scrubby bush that precludes any view and looks exactly the same for miles and miles is a wee bit of a test of faith in technology. GPS of course is the technology, other than the reliability of the vehicle!

We had plenty of fuel, lots of water and a roll of duct tape. One shouldn't venture into the wilderness without these things. And yes, I hear you ask, we did have toilet paper!

We are staying at Gweta Lodge on the road from Maun to Nata, and this morning headed off to Ntwetwe  (likely got that speeling wrong) Pan.  Didn't look too far on the map, but when you are finding out how well a 4 wheel drive handles sand for the first time, and can't see more than 50 metres in any direction other than up, it is cause for a weeny bit of anxiety.. The fact that there are tracks going in all sorts of directions doesn't help either.  fun..  note, lower case.

Of course Ali has no idea, and thinks I know what I am doing! This is clearly how couples just vanish in Africa. She believes he knows where he is, and what he is doing, and he is too wound up to talk!

Anyway, we did find said Pan, and stopped in the middle of it for a coffee and the photo op.

Editing issue here, as the photos of todays driving advnture have yet to be uploaded..  in the meantime:

Photos...from the last week or two.

 Every evening we would go somewhere to watch the sunset with drinks.  Sundowners.

 Yes, Ali is looking nervous, as this teenage bull was getting a lesson in vehicle etiquette, and was impressive.

 Wilderbeast amid the dust they raise.

 Walking back to Mashutu camp on the river..  Large bull Ele ahead, not visible.  Lions roaring at night from this river. Excellent sound

 Ali missed this, as she needed a day off.

 Female, matriachal society, and she was nervous about something..  we thought possibly there were lions around..

 People were here a LONG time ago. clear evidence.  very cool...  cave painting, same place.

 Coffee break, while walking..  we'd often take this all with us. Great plan

 Single file, with a 458 magnum and a 375 as well.  Just in case. Neither rifle would you ever fire lying down (unless you were knocked there) as you likely would break your collar bone!  Small, hand held cannons.

 Still no snake, but at least a skin. Steve with a Black Mamba skin.  A big one too. Not aggressive snake, but seriously venomous.

 Breeding herd, so keeping well clear.

 Ali enjoying Africa

 At Cecil Rhodes Baobab, another sunset

 This guy was close, but not really serious.

 Africa on our boots

 Norman, the star tracker..  warthog tusk

 Slightly nervous guide, as these are one of the most dangerous animals especially in thick bush.

Mystery photo....   especially for William

Elephant with your coffee?

There has been too much happening to cover everything, and it's almost 7:30pm, which means it is dark here, and that most definitely means it is bed time!!!!  We have got used to 5:30am starts, and 7 or 8pm bed times. And no remote to change channels!!! actually, no channels anyway.

So, very briefly, walking in the African bush (this does not mean anything like NZ bush) is an experience that we cannot get enough of. Sadly, once you are on your own, it is mostly either prohibited or at least strongly advised against.  We are ok with this, as we do not have a large calibre rifle (or any other firearm) and nothing like enough experience to go wandering without one.

The drum signalling time to get up (yes, a real drum) got beaten most mornings at 6, by which time, we were almost always up, and ready to go. The schedule: cuppa with rusk and cereal, then off for a walk or a drive then walk. Back at camp for brunch, rest, shower..  drum, again, high tea, which  was a whole meal, about 2:30, then repeat...  drive/walk  or just walk.

Very cool to be sitting in the sand of a dry riverbed to have a huge bull elephant (everyone just calls them ele's here) wandering slowly towards you totally oblivious to your presence.  The guide/teacher lets him get to about 30 metres and then quietly says "hello boy" at which point the bull stops, with a clear gesture of surprise, pauses for quite some time, then decides he hasn't heard anything and continues towards us. Very exciting this. Again  "hello boy" very quietly spoken, and now, he stops, one foot not quite on the ground (this, exactly as guide told us it would do.. "he will stop, one foot up, and think"..  "don't do anything, let him decide"  "he'll likely just pretend he didn't really want to go this way anyway, and change course slightly, as if saving face")  and after a good minute, he peacefully, places the foot on the ground, changes course a few degrees and quietly walks past us all.

There have been many other encounters with numerous animals, but nothing quite compares to the power of the elephants. The bulls on their own are fine, but the herds with cows and small (and very funny to watch) babies are dangerous and almost unpredictable, well at least for us.

Last day of the 2 week course, coffee after brunch, sitting at the camp...  up walks a large bull ele. In fact, a visiting diesel mechanic all but bumped into it on the track to the vehicle park, he came back to camp a little flustered.

I just happened to be on the same side of the table as the elephant, and with a mixture of excitement and a little anxiety, sat, sipping the coffee as he slowly approached, plucking little clumps of grass and swatting the mud off them before delicately placing them in his mouth.  Head guide, says to me, "just stay there, don't do anything quickly, he has chosen to bring us into his space, he knows we are here".  So, no real choice other than to just enjoy the moment. The ele decides that about 3 metres is close enough, and keeps pulling up grass and swatting the dirt off it. Some of that dirt ends up in the cup of the guy sitting on the other side of the table to me!

For quite some time I was within easy reaching distance (for him, not me) of this elephant, and it was amazing to realize that if it was in a bad mood, there was nothing anyone could do to stop him from doing so.

We were asked for a highlight of our two weeks course, but really there were too many to pick just one, but if I had to, that would be it.  Bed time...  8pm

This was after coffee, and I had a chance to get my camera. He stayed in camp for about 1.5 hours. In this shot, he is about 5 metres away, and I am looking though the screen that is the tent wall.

The Last Post.. umm.. hope not!!!

So, tomorrow (Thursday here) we are off to Pont Drift (yep, google that) to start our two weeks with Eco Training. First week in the Tuli game reserve in the Nth East of Botswana, then the second week at Makuleke in the Kruger National Park.  Both places have no access to cellphone, internet or even reliable power..  Sounds great to me.

 No idea why they bother trying to keep it closed, as the animals take no notice.  We like that. I almost had a warthog bump into me here last night. And they look very intimidating!

                              Not photoshopped. Sunrise from the top of the mountain at 0635 today.

                              The front gate..  really excellent place. ( The camp!!!  not the gate!!  jeeze!!  )

                                               Tshipise from the mountain top

                         a Klippsrpinger. Unique in the world of antelopes.  About the size of a large goat.
                              We spooked this one and it's mate coming down the mountain.

Everything over here has nasty thorns. Sunset, with one of the many types of acacia. Ali got hooked up really well, I just was too slow with the camera, it would have been a great shot. Ask her!!! Took some real effort to get the thorn out of her arm.  Such fun.